#4300. Masculine Renunciation or Rejection of the Feminine?: Revisiting J.C. Fl?gel’s Psychology of Clothes

September 2026publication date
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Psychology
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Abstract:
In this article, I revisit J.C. Flugel’s conception of the “Great Masculine Renunciation” and its lasting effect on fashion scholarship. Coined in Flugel’s 1930 book The Psychology of Clothes, the term was quickly adopted by early dress historians, though it has often been used in extraction from its original context. Flugel’s framework of psychology both illuminated and limited his analysis of men’s clothing. I challenge Flugel’s definition of the changes in fashions that did occur at the end of the 18th century as essentially about masculinity—by far the more profound impact has been the associated assigning of women’s dress to the character of “fashion,” a role which had previously been held by both genders of the upper class. While it is not invalid to consider this esthetic shift in terms of a loss for men, it also allowed for women’s fashion to be marked as fashion, and for women and nonwhite, non-western, or non-heteronormative men to be marked as “other.”.
Keywords:
French Revolution; gender; Great Masculine Renunciation; masculinity

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